Knitting Needle Case extended

Posted by on 4 August 2020 | 0 Comments

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Last week I posted about my sleeve inserts for the knitting needle case I made. This week I wanted to share some additions and adjustments that I've made over the last week to complete my case.

case finished

My finished knitting needle case

First of all, let me say it is definitely easier to plan and make the inside pockets before making the cover, this way you can make the cover to fit your pockets which you can design to the size you want. Yes, I had to pull my cover apart to finish adding the pockets I wanted. So if you are a quilter, make a beautiful quilted cover as instructed in my free online workshop or if you are not, simply substitute the quilted cover for a beautiful piece of fabric and before starting, determine the size pockets you want to make and make the cover to fit them.... but maybe read my extra tips below before starting!

I used an old tablet cover as my base to slot inside the cover to keep it rigid. There is number of other things that could be used too, but this is what I had on hand at the time. My problem with the tablet cover was the spine wasn't quite wide enough. Using heavy card is a better option because it can be cut to size. An old book cover could work too and even better, a cut down ringbinder - this latter would definitely make an awesome way of having removable sleeves.

case to stabilize case

Heavy card, ringbinder or old tablet/book cover can be used

I added pockets inside the back and front covers for added storage. These will house my cables for my interchangables and other accessories. A velcro dot (or press stud) in the center keeps the cables from popping out. The tabs at the top hold my short stitch holders and markers for easy access. 

case inside back cover

velcro dot holds sheer pockets closed
tabs hold stitch holders and markers

I created a much better cutting and hemming method for the sheer fabric.... (actually I stole this idea from my Picturesque Botanical or Aquarium Scene online workshop) I used a soldering iron and metal ruler to seal the edges so no need to hem them. Using two layers, you can also make sturdy pockets. It's a very quick way to cut as well as seal each piece to the correct size. Note: you need something solid underneath - I used a sheet of glass - and you also need to work in a ventilated area.

soldering edges

Soldering sheer fabric saves a lot of time

Last week, I made a chart of the pocket sizes of my interchangable tips. To get the chart right, I did need to reduce some of the sizes but this was easy to do by adding about an inch of stitching to the top of the pocket. I could sew all the way down if I wanted but didn't find it necessary.

case reducing tip pocket

This is how I reduced the size of pocket to avoid tips falling out

I also added an inside pocket with zip which is removable. It tucks in under the inside cover sections (the lining).

case inside

Shows inner pocket with zip tucked inside the lining

This was very easy to make. To do so, cut out sheer fabric about an inch larger than the opened cover. Cut one piece in half and sew those cut edges to the sides of the zip.

case inner pocket zip

Zips are easy to add flat before pocket is stitch together

Put both pieces together and hem or solder completely around the edge getting as close to the metal zip bars as possible. If sewing: have right sides together so seam allowance ends up inside and use a zipper foot so you can get close to the metal bar without hitting it. For mine, I pinked the seam allowances to prevent them fraying, this is a good option if you don't have a soldering iron.

case inside pocket with zip

This zip pocket is inserted under the lining sections

One last thing I did was to add a closing zip. You can just include a tab is you wish but I like the double security so things have no chance of falling out. This step definitely needs to be added as you create the cover. This is how I did it....

I used a 20mm cotton tape around the seam. This added fabric gives me the depth (or thickness) I need to house all those needles. (Note: if you have a wider spine, you may need wider tape - or bias binding could work too)

The tape needs to be positioned between the inside lining sections and the appliqued cover.

case enclosing tape1

Tape inserted between layers (lining at top in picture)

The tape stopped and started in the middle of the spine. When stitching this in place, you need to stop sewing at the edge of the spine (and not across the spine) leaving the ends free.

case enclosing tape

Don't stitch the tape within the spin area

With the tape in place, I sewed the free edges of the tape to the zip. The metal stoppers at the top of the zip should be even with the previous stitching on the tape. If the bottom of the zip extends beyond the stitching, that's okay, just stop stitching level with the previous stitching.

To neaten off the ends (this is the trickiest part), I did the zip up with right sides in.... and at each end of the spine sewed across the ends so the tape/zip ends were attached to the cover. You need to do this to prevent a hole at each end of the spine... just be careful not to sew over the metal bits of the zip!

Stitching in ends

Note: Be sure to trim all the threads back close to the fabric so there is no chance to get them caught in the zip.

Here is how the outside looks once the ends are stitched:

case outside zip end

spine completed with no hole

And that has my needle case finished. I added a zipper puller to make it complete....

case outer zip

zipped cover with puller

I'm so pleased I can now keep all my circular needles and interchangables in one place.... and for those who are wondering what I keep my table in now.... I made a new cover which has fuchsias on it appliqued in silk. More about appliquing silk in coming weeks.

tablet case

Tablet Cover with silk applique

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